Diesel
sunglasses enhance clear-cut, embracing and broad. The new
season's collection immediately draws the attention to a
ultramodern design, as seen in the perforated sides fitted
to the lower section of the front, or the original cut of
the lenses inside frames. The tones of the metal structure
are essential, helping the colour express to the full -
lilac, green, light grey or blue - made even more aggressive
by the faded and mirror effect.
Clear-cut,
embracing, broad. Mask-like shapes that cover the face,
to protect it, to be noticed. The new season's collection
of Diesel eyeglasses wastes no time on discretion, but immediately
draws the attention to a ultramodern design.
"Beginning as a company focused on making quality clothing,
Diesel has become part of youth culture worldwide. It can
legitimately claim to be the first brand to believe truly
in the global village and to embrace it with open arms"
THE
COMPANY
The brand Diesel was born more than 20 years
ago and is today an innovative international design company,
manufacturing jeans and casual clothing as well as accessories.
It is present in over 80 countries with 10,000 points of
sale and almost 50 company-owned stores.
When
Renzo Rosso founded the company in 1978, he wanted it to
be a leader, a company which took chances and carved out
a niche for itself in its field. He surrounded himself with
creative, talented people - innovators who, like him, rejected
the slavish trend-following typical of the fashion industry.
Renzo wanted to come up with a more dynamic and imaginative
line of clothing than was available anywhere. He gave his
open-minded new designers broad stylistic freedom, hoping
they could create a line of clothing perfect for people
who follow their own independent path in life. Particularly
for those who decide to express their individuality also
by the way they dress.
From
the very beginning, Diesel's design team turned their backs
on the style-dictators and consumer forecasters of the fashion
establishment and let their own tastes lead them. It is
for this reason that Diesel immediately became a leader
in developing styles, fabrics, manufacturing methods and
quality control, guaranteeing an outstanding quality product.
The
company views the world as a single, border-less macro-culture.
And the Diesel staff reflects this: a wide variety of people
and personalities from all parts of the globe, creating
an unpredictable, dynamic vitality and energy within the
company. Diesel people and their working methods are so
unconventional, and yet productive, that they have been
profiled in countless magazines, newspapers and documentary
television programmes, and have been studied by international
conglomerates, consulting organizations, universities and
business schools.
Diesel's
"historical moments" include mile-stones like
1978 (creation of the brand name), 1985 (Renzo Rosso's complete
acquisition of the company), 1991 (beginning of the international
marketing strategy) and 1996 (opening of Diesel's first
flagship store on New York City's Lexington Avenue).
Ever
since the beginning, Renzo Rosso believed in addressing
the world with one product and one language, and one of
his first steps was building a solid and vast distribution
platform stretching across all 5 continents.
Most
of Diesel's current production is outsourced, to small and
medium-sized companies. Production of denim jeans is based
exclusively in Italy. All international logistics operations
(wholesale and retail) are centrally managed and carefully
controlled.
Today
Diesel is a global concern with a consolidated annual turnover
of 575 billion Lire (US$ 330 millions), 85% of which is
generated outside Italy. The Headquarters are located in
Molvena, in the north-eastern part of Italy, where the company
manages 17 subsidiaries across Europe, Asia and the Americas.
Diesel employs over 2650 people worldwide (1230 in Wholesale
and 1420 in Retail).
"The
Haute Couture of Casual"
THE
PRODUCT
Diesel
design does not follow established trends. It is largely
unaffected by fads occurring within the fashion circles;
it is innovative and at times a bit radical, but always
shows a careful attention to detail and a focus on quality
in the selection of materials and production techniques.
Diesel collections effectively precede trends and do not
respond to them, while at the same time the emphasis on
quality is never compromised. This focus on independent
working methods and strong quality almost seems to translate
within the company into an attitude towards living - the
Diesel way.
The
Style and Graphic Offices literally work side by side in
one huge open space, a creative group strengthening itself
through close collaboration. Diesel's stylists come from
widely diverse cultures and backgrounds, and they all contribute
to the creation of a truly global product. Every line is
designed by a dedicated group of people (1 stylist, 1 assistant
and 1 product manager), who get their inspiration from the
most unpredictable places. Diesel designers are famous for
their strange self-planned research trips around the world!
The
main product lines are:
D-Diesel
- a collection focused mainly on denim for men and women
full of unique details and constantly new finishings
DieselStyleLab - a high-end casual collection pioneering
in design, fabrics and product innovation for an individual
dresser who looks for new design and enjoys wearable clothing
Diesel Kids - clothing for young people who love the thrill
of exploration. Bright colors, confident, modern lines -
gutsy clothing for a gutsy generation
55DSL - a strong and independent sportswear collection,
anti-gravity clothing for lovers of emerging extreme and
action sports and for the new generations
"Diesel
isn't just about making clothing and accessories. Its design
team is creating Diesel 'spaces' which help communicate
the message and the feeling of the products it is selling"
RETAIL
Parallel
to its wholesale distribution through multi-brand stores
and corners (in chain and department stores), in 1996 Diesel
embarked on a new adventure: retail. Flagship stores (New
York, London, San Francisco, Rome) and single-brand stores
(from Santa Monica to Milan, from Paris to Antwerp) are
the ideal vehicle to bring the Diesel concept to life in
its entirety, providing enough space to showcase all Diesel
collections. While each individual store is unique, they
all share a similar atmosphere. The stores help Diesel's
retail and wholesale divisions to grow simultaneously because
they strengthen the company's image and increase customer
product awareness: they guide the market and help immeasurably
in communicating the true vibe of the company to the public.
Recent
openings included Tokyo and Copenhagen but new plans are
underway for many new cities.
"Diesel
is a state of mind: it means being open to new things, listening
to one's intuition and being honest with oneself. We would
like to offer consumers a total look which reflects this
attitude"
LICENSES
Diesel
has grown from a simple jeans and clothing company to a
major fashion brand, offering the maximum of creativity
and innovation. Licenses are a natural way to expand the
offering to the final customer. Diesel's licensed products
are 100% Diesel: they represent accurately the ethos, design
and spirit of the company.
Present
license agreements include: Eyewear (an extensive collection
of glasses by Safilo, Italy), Footwear (by Global Brand
Marketing, U.S.A.), Fragrances and Cosmetics (featuring
two different scents, "Diesel Plus Plus" and "Zero
Plus" by Marbert, Germany), Luggage and Small Leather
Goods (by Principe, Italy) and Watches (produced and distributed
by Fossil, U.S.A.).
"Only
a fashion company could create such a 'Haute Couture' hotel"
THE
PELICAN HOTEL
It's
the perfect South Beach expression of the company's vibe:
quirky, state-of-the-art, paradoxical, extravagant, kitsch
and nonsensical. All 28 rooms in this Fifties' hotel are
designed and decorated to feel like surreal movie sets:
each is filled with recycled furniture and objects, and
named after its own style. Examples include: the Psychedelic
Room, made with plastic furniture and posters from the 70's;
the African Room, with a triumph of zebra stripes furnished
in old safari style; the Stars and Stripes room, a tribute
to the American flag. Other favorites include the Best Whorehouse,
Halfway to Hollywood, Me Tarzan, You Vain, and three executive
oceanfront suites featuring the styles of the 30's, 50's
and 60's. Those who are familiar with the intentional visual
ironies of Diesel will not be surprised by the Pelican's
design oddities: a definitively unusual place suited to
the coolest!
"When
advertising is at its best, it understands and expresses
the inner feelings associated with the product and the company"
THE
COMMUNICATION
The
now famous Diesel advertising campaigns started in 1991
and ever since have been characterized by a single creative
execution run in every market of the world, helping the
company become truly global. As it was in the beginning,
all of this is developed by bringing together the work of
Diesel's internal Creative Team and external advertising
agencies. The Creative Team is a small group of people with
creative and marketing functions within the company: it
is their creativity and knowledge of the brand values, together
with the executional skills of advertising agencies, that
guarantee that all Diesel communications stay true to the
company's particular identity.
Diesel
appropriated the "consumer products make better living"
theme (so beloved by advertisers from the 50s onwards) and
translated into the "DIESEL - FOR SUCCESSFUL LIVING"
campaigns. Diesel images of consumer paradise must however
be interpreted very ironically: the standard promise of
"success" found in most advertising is exaggerated
and made absurd. Serious themes seem to be lurking everywhere
in the advertising, but any suggestion of worthiness is
undercut by a final admission that it's all just a joke.
This
"FOR SUCCESSFUL LIVING" concept has not only been
understood and appreciated by the public but also by the
advertising establishment (which was initially very skeptical
about this approach). So far Diesel advertising has been
awarded by the Cannes Film Festival in 1995, '96 and '97
(Grand Prix in the film category, Golden Prize in the print
category and the "Advertiser of the Year" award
in 1998), by Eurobest (Top Award in '94, Grand Prix for
print campaigns in '95, '96 and '97), by Epica ('97 Golden
Prizes both for print campaigns and TV commercial), to name
just a few.
The
real showcase for the broader range of Diesel collections
have been the various eclectic catalogues produced, in which
the product often serves only as illustrative, incidental
content. These publications have been celebrated over the
years for their radical approach, every edition representing
a significant evolution in graphical and photographic technique.
New Diesel catalogues feature the product a bit more prominently
(a concession to the expansion of the company's range and
growing customer base), but still maintain an edgy creativity
and high artistic standards.
Diesel
is also globally recognized in communication circles for
its progressive interactive media activities. Diesel was
one of the first companies to have a major presence on the
Internet (www.diesel.com) - opening its site in 1995. Today
the site contains information about all Diesel clothing
collections, as well as its licensed products, plus a complete
archive of all Diesel advertising. Members of the Diesel
Club receive new information, exclusive previews and regular
updates via email.
Diesel
first entered the world of e-commerce in 1997, selling jeans
online in Finland and Sweden. In 1998 Diesel opened the
Internet-based 'Virtual Store' for home delivery of products
to customers in selected markets. The 'Virtual Store' is
currently undergoing expansion to extend online sales to
completely cover Europe and USA by the end of the year 2000.
Through
the creative use of new media, communication is no longer
a one way message, but a complex and entertaining dialogue
between Diesel and its customers, enabling active participation
and interaction with the brand. Diesel has achieved much
recognition and collected many awards in this area, including:
1999 - BIMA (British Interactive Media Awards), Winner -
Virtual Store; Design Council's Design Effectiveness Awards,
Winner - Virtual Store and email marketing database; Design
Week Magazine Awards, Multimedia Graphics, Finalist - Virtual
Store; 2000 - Design Week Magazine Awards, Site award 55DSL.
Beyond
the Internet, Diesel's new media activities stretch into
many different areas. The company has produced award-winning
CD-ROMs, such as "Digital Adrenaline - 55DSL",
a game-and-music filled CD-ROM in support of the 55DSL line.
Additionally, Diesel has begun to make a big splash in the
world of video games, contributing its logo and creative
content to new video game releases, such as Psygnosis' hits,
"G-Police I and II", Acclaim's "Shadowman"
and "Extreme G II". To be launched in September
and October 2000 respectively are Sega's "55DSL Xtreme
Sports" for the Sega Dreamcast and Infogrames and Reflections
Studio's 'Driver 2' the most anticipated game of the year
for the Playstation.
"Behind
the world's most distinctive brands, those which display
a unique or even eccentric character and vision, there is
usually a singularly driven individual"
RENZO
ROSSO, THE MAN BEHIND DIESEL
In
the case of Diesel, the individual who has powered the company's
growth is Renzo Rosso. Born in 1955 in the north-east of
Italy, he attended an industrial textile manufacturing school
and after graduating in 1975, began making his own clothing.
In 1978 he joined forces with several other manufactures
in his region to form the Genius Group, which created many
successful brands still widely known today, such as Katherine
Hamnett, Goldie, Martin Guy, Goldie, Ten Big Boys and, of
course, Diesel. In 1985 Renzo took complete control of Diesel
by buying out the other partners and becoming the sole force
behind the brand. Thereafter the company began a period
of remarkable growth and expansion.
It
was thus that, in 1996, Renzo Rosso and Diesel received
the "Premio Risultati" award from the prestigious
Bocconi Institute in Milan for being the "Best Italian
Company of the Year". Renzo was also nominated by American
Ernst & Young as "Entrepreneur of the Year"
for 1997 for the company's strong moves in the U.S. In December
1997, the English music and trend magazine "Select"
included Renzo in a special classification of the 100 most
important people in the world who will contribute to the
shape of the new Millennium.
Renzo
is an idealistic, passionate man whose motto is "Diesel
is not my company, it's my life".